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Bespoke outerwear

Raglan Coat

Confirmed at the consultation; plan on the suit timeline of four to six weeks, longer if the cloth is ordered in.

The raglan coat takes its name from the first Baron Raglan, who commissioned a coat with a modified sleeve construction that accommodated a prosthetic arm after injury at Waterloo. The raglan sleeve — cut in one piece with the shoulder, using a diagonal seam from the armhole to the collar rather than a set-in shoulder seam — is considerably more comfortable for movement than a standard coat, particularly when wearing layers underneath.

Raglan Coat — The Black Lapel, Adyar, Chennai

What it is

The raglan coat takes its name from the first Baron Raglan, who commissioned a coat with a modified sleeve construction that accommodated a prosthetic arm after injury at Waterloo. The raglan sleeve — cut in one piece with the shoulder, using a diagonal seam from the armhole to the collar rather than a set-in shoulder seam — is considerably more comfortable for movement than a standard coat, particularly when wearing layers underneath.

Read the full guide to the raglan coat.

Who it is for

Clients who travel to cooler cities and want a coat cut to their shoulders and length.

Cloth and options

Cloth from Ermenegildo Zegna, Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Roger La Viale and Raymond: year-round worsteds, tropical and high-twist weaves for Chennai, flannels for cooler cities, linen and silk-wool blends.

Sizes

Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.

Lead time and fittings

Lead time. Confirmed at the consultation; plan on the suit timeline of four to six weeks, longer if the cloth is ordered in.

Fittings. Two fittings: a basted fitting in your own cloth at week two or three, and a final fitting before finishing. A third is added if the fit demands it.

Care

Brush after each wear, rest it a day on a shaped hanger, steam rather than press at home, and dry-clean as rarely as possible. Repairs and re-pressing come back to us.

Price tier

We do not publish a price list; the cloth decides most of the number. What moves it is the cloth first, then the construction (full or half canvas, hand-padded lapels, hand-worked buttonholes), then the complexity of the cut.

  • Entry. An Indian mill wool such as Raymond, half-canvassed, in a plain two-button cut.
  • Mid. An imported British or Italian worsted from Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil or Roger La Viale.
  • Top. Super 130s to 150s and above from Zegna or Scabal, full canvas, with hand-finished details.

How to order

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

Order a raglan coat.

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

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Raglan Coat: questions people ask

How much does a raglan coat cost at The Black Lapel?
We do not publish a price list, because the cloth decides most of the number. Entry tier: An Indian mill wool such as Raymond, half-canvassed, in a plain two-button cut. Mid tier: An imported British or Italian worsted from Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil or Roger La Viale. Top tier: Super 130s to 150s and above from Zegna or Scabal, full canvas, with hand-finished details. What moves the price is the cloth first, then the construction (full or half canvas, hand-padded lapels, hand-worked buttonholes), then the complexity of the cut. Ask at the counter or on WhatsApp for the number in your size.
How long does a raglan coat take?
Confirmed at the consultation; plan on the suit timeline of four to six weeks, longer if the cloth is ordered in.
How many fittings are there?
Two fittings: a basted fitting in your own cloth at week two or three, and a final fitting before finishing. A third is added if the fit demands it.
What sizes can you make or stock?
Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.
Which fabrics or brands can I choose from?
Cloth from Ermenegildo Zegna, Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Roger La Viale and Raymond: year-round worsteds, tropical and high-twist weaves for Chennai, flannels for cooler cities, linen and silk-wool blends.
Can you alter it later?
Yes. Alterations are done in-house by the same workshop, for garments made here and for garments bought elsewhere.
Do you serve customers outside Adyar?
All of Chennai and its suburbs, every city in Tamil Nadu, South India, the rest of India, and NRI clients visiting Chennai. Clients travel to Adyar from Coimbatore and Bangalore and we plan fittings around their trips.
How do I order?
By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.