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Indian ethnic wear, made to order

Nehru Jacket

Four to five weeks; the stand collar needs its own fitting work.

The Nehru jacket — a short, mandarin-collared jacket that derives its name from India's first Prime Minister — sits at the intersection of Indian and Western dress in a way no other garment does. Short enough to wear with Western trousers or jeans, Indian enough to communicate cultural identity, formal enough for most professional and social occasions — the Nehru jacket is a genuinely versatile garment that works across an unusually broad range of contexts.

Nehru Jacket — The Black Lapel, Adyar, Chennai

What it is

The Nehru jacket — a short, mandarin-collared jacket that derives its name from India's first Prime Minister — sits at the intersection of Indian and Western dress in a way no other garment does. Short enough to wear with Western trousers or jeans, Indian enough to communicate cultural identity, formal enough for most professional and social occasions — the Nehru jacket is a genuinely versatile garment that works across an unusually broad range of contexts.

Read the full guide to the nehru jacket.

Who it is for

Grooms, fathers, brothers and wedding guests, and men who wear Indian formal dress to work and festivals.

Cloth and options

Raw silk, dupion, brocade, velvet, fine suiting wool, linen and cotton; embroidery by karigars we have worked with for years, placed before the first fitting.

Sizes

Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.

Lead time and fittings

Lead time. Four to five weeks; the stand collar needs its own fitting work.

Fittings. Two fittings for a jacket; one for a kurta, churidar or Pathani set.

Care

Silk, brocade and embroidered pieces are dry-clean only; store wrapped in muslin, away from light. Cotton kurtas wash at home.

Price tier

We do not publish a price list; the cloth decides most of the number. What moves it is the cloth, then the embroidery (priced by the amount of work), then construction.

  • Entry. Indian mill suiting, cotton or a silk blend.
  • Mid. Raw silk, dupion or fine suiting wool.
  • Top. Imported brocade, heavy silk or velvet with zardozi or hand embroidery.

How to order

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

Order a nehru jacket.

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

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Nehru Jacket: questions people ask

How much does a nehru jacket cost at The Black Lapel?
We do not publish a price list, because the cloth decides most of the number. Entry tier: Indian mill suiting, cotton or a silk blend. Mid tier: Raw silk, dupion or fine suiting wool. Top tier: Imported brocade, heavy silk or velvet with zardozi or hand embroidery. What moves the price is the cloth, then the embroidery (priced by the amount of work), then construction. Ask at the counter or on WhatsApp for the number in your size.
How long does a nehru jacket take?
Four to five weeks; the stand collar needs its own fitting work.
How many fittings are there?
Two fittings for a jacket; one for a kurta, churidar or Pathani set.
What sizes can you make or stock?
Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.
Which fabrics or brands can I choose from?
Raw silk, dupion, brocade, velvet, fine suiting wool, linen and cotton; embroidery by karigars we have worked with for years, placed before the first fitting.
Can you alter it later?
Yes. Alterations are done in-house by the same workshop, for garments made here and for garments bought elsewhere.
Do you serve customers outside Adyar?
All of Chennai and its suburbs, every city in Tamil Nadu, South India, the rest of India, and NRI clients visiting Chennai. Clients travel to Adyar from Coimbatore and Bangalore and we plan fittings around their trips.
How do I order?
By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.