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Bespoke trousers

Gurkha Trousers

Two to three weeks for a first pair; one to two weeks for further pairs on your pattern.

The Gurkha trouser is distinguished by its double-tab closure — two adjustable tabs at the front that replace the belt loop and buckle system — and its high waist, which gives the trouser a longer, cleaner line from the waistband. It originated with the uniforms of the Gurkha regiments of the British Indian Army and has been adopted into bespoke menswear as one of the most characterful and elegant of trouser details.

Gurkha Trousers — The Black Lapel, Adyar, Chennai

What it is

The Gurkha trouser is distinguished by its double-tab closure — two adjustable tabs at the front that replace the belt loop and buckle system — and its high waist, which gives the trouser a longer, cleaner line from the waistband. It originated with the uniforms of the Gurkha regiments of the British Indian Army and has been adopted into bespoke menswear as one of the most characterful and elegant of trouser details.

Read the full guide to the gurkha trousers.

Who it is for

Men who want trousers that sit at the right rise and break, cut to their waist, seat and length rather than a size.

Cloth and options

The same suiting cloths as our jackets (Ermenegildo Zegna, Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Roger La Viale and Raymond), plus cottons, linens and chinos cloth.

Sizes

Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.

Lead time and fittings

Lead time. Two to three weeks for a first pair; one to two weeks for further pairs on your pattern.

Fittings. One fitting on a first pair; none needed on repeats once your pattern is proven.

Care

Hang from the hem or fold over a bar, press under a cloth, dry-clean rarely. We re-hem and take in as you need.

Price tier

We do not publish a price list; the cloth decides most of the number. What moves it is the cloth first, then the construction (full or half canvas, hand-padded lapels, hand-worked buttonholes), then the complexity of the cut.

  • Entry. An Indian mill wool such as Raymond, half-canvassed, in a plain two-button cut.
  • Mid. An imported British or Italian worsted from Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil or Roger La Viale.
  • Top. Super 130s to 150s and above from Zegna or Scabal, full canvas, with hand-finished details.

How to order

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

Order a gurkha trousers.

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

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Gurkha Trousers: questions people ask

How much does a gurkha trousers cost at The Black Lapel?
We do not publish a price list, because the cloth decides most of the number. Entry tier: An Indian mill wool such as Raymond, half-canvassed, in a plain two-button cut. Mid tier: An imported British or Italian worsted from Holland & Sherry, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Dormeuil or Roger La Viale. Top tier: Super 130s to 150s and above from Zegna or Scabal, full canvas, with hand-finished details. What moves the price is the cloth first, then the construction (full or half canvas, hand-padded lapels, hand-worked buttonholes), then the complexity of the cut. Ask at the counter or on WhatsApp for the number in your size.
How long does a gurkha trousers take?
Two to three weeks for a first pair; one to two weeks for further pairs on your pattern.
How many fittings are there?
One fitting on a first pair; none needed on repeats once your pattern is proven.
What sizes can you make or stock?
Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.
Which fabrics or brands can I choose from?
The same suiting cloths as our jackets (Ermenegildo Zegna, Holland & Sherry, Scabal, Dormeuil, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Roger La Viale and Raymond), plus cottons, linens and chinos cloth.
Can you alter it later?
Yes. Alterations are done in-house by the same workshop, for garments made here and for garments bought elsewhere.
Do you serve customers outside Adyar?
All of Chennai and its suburbs, every city in Tamil Nadu, South India, the rest of India, and NRI clients visiting Chennai. Clients travel to Adyar from Coimbatore and Bangalore and we plan fittings around their trips.
How do I order?
By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.