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Indian ethnic wear, made to order

Achkan

Five to six weeks plain or lightly embellished; eight to twelve weeks with heavy zardozi or full embroidery.

The achkan is a long coat worn over the kurta and churidar, closely related to the sherwani but with a more tailored, structured construction that reflects its Mughal court origins. Where the sherwani prioritises fabric richness and embellishment, the achkan emphasises cut and construction — it is a more tailored garment, closer to a Western coat in its construction while remaining unmistakably Indian in its silhouette.

Achkan — The Black Lapel, Adyar, Chennai

What it is

The achkan is a long coat worn over the kurta and churidar, closely related to the sherwani but with a more tailored, structured construction that reflects its Mughal court origins. Where the sherwani prioritises fabric richness and embellishment, the achkan emphasises cut and construction — it is a more tailored garment, closer to a Western coat in its construction while remaining unmistakably Indian in its silhouette.

Read the full guide to the achkan.

Who it is for

Grooms, fathers, brothers and wedding guests, and men who wear Indian formal dress to work and festivals.

Cloth and options

Raw silk, dupion, brocade, velvet, fine suiting wool, linen and cotton; embroidery by karigars we have worked with for years, placed before the first fitting.

Sizes

Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.

Lead time and fittings

Lead time. Five to six weeks plain or lightly embellished; eight to twelve weeks with heavy zardozi or full embroidery.

Fittings. Two fittings: a basted shell before the embroidery is placed, then a near-finished fitting.

Care

Silk, brocade and embroidered pieces are dry-clean only; store wrapped in muslin, away from light. Cotton kurtas wash at home.

Price tier

We do not publish a price list; the cloth decides most of the number. What moves it is the cloth, then the embroidery (priced by the amount of work), then construction.

  • Entry. Indian mill suiting, cotton or a silk blend.
  • Mid. Raw silk, dupion or fine suiting wool.
  • Top. Imported brocade, heavy silk or velvet with zardozi or hand embroidery.

How to order

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

Order a achkan.

By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.

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Achkan: questions people ask

How much does a achkan cost at The Black Lapel?
We do not publish a price list, because the cloth decides most of the number. Entry tier: Indian mill suiting, cotton or a silk blend. Mid tier: Raw silk, dupion or fine suiting wool. Top tier: Imported brocade, heavy silk or velvet with zardozi or hand embroidery. What moves the price is the cloth, then the embroidery (priced by the amount of work), then construction. Ask at the counter or on WhatsApp for the number in your size.
How long does a achkan take?
Five to six weeks plain or lightly embellished; eight to twelve weeks with heavy zardozi or full embroidery.
How many fittings are there?
Two fittings: a basted shell before the embroidery is placed, then a near-finished fitting.
What sizes can you make or stock?
Any size. There is no size chart: the pattern is drafted from your own measurements, so tall, short, broad and asymmetric builds are cut as they are.
Which fabrics or brands can I choose from?
Raw silk, dupion, brocade, velvet, fine suiting wool, linen and cotton; embroidery by karigars we have worked with for years, placed before the first fitting.
Can you alter it later?
Yes. Alterations are done in-house by the same workshop, for garments made here and for garments bought elsewhere.
Do you serve customers outside Adyar?
All of Chennai and its suburbs, every city in Tamil Nadu, South India, the rest of India, and NRI clients visiting Chennai. Clients travel to Adyar from Coimbatore and Bangalore and we plan fittings around their trips.
How do I order?
By appointment at the Adyar atelier. Book on WhatsApp (+91 98414 31402), by phone, or through the website; walk-ins are welcome when we are not with another client. Measurements are taken in person; outstation and NRI clients have fittings planned around their trips to Chennai.